I’ve been using iMazing for awhile, and meant to do a write up but MacWorld beat me to it.
This is highly recommended, especially if you are dealing with multiple devices and either want to retrieve info from any of them or, and this is big, you are backing up multiple devices and want to move those off your internal drive where they can take up HUGE amounts of space. Additionally, for persons wanting to drag & drop photos from your computer directly to your iDevice (iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch), now you can.
With companies such as Verizon and Time Warner offering broadband internet speeds of 300Mb/s (that’s megabit per second) or greater, it’s time to stop thinking like this is still the year 2000. I know, because my own broadband has gone from 30Mb/s to 200Mb/s in just the last month.
Some things to take into account:
If you are using a cable modem, what do you have? Is it DOCCIS 3 rated? What are the fastest speeds it can handle? How many channels can it bond?
Is the router connecting you to the Internet capable of handling the faster speeds?
If your router in 2. is capable of handling the faster speeds, and it also provides WiFi, what spectrum does the WiFi operate at 2.4Ghz or 5Ghz or both?
Do you have other devices (computers, etc) on your network connecting via Ethernet? If yes, how old are the patch cables connecting them? What are the cables rated?
If you have additional Ethernet switches on the network what’s the fastest speed of the ports?
Let’s deal with these one at a time.
To test your cable modem, plug your computer directly into the Ethernet port on the modem. Once you are connected to the modem and have a valid IP address, go to this site to test your speeds:http://testmy.net/SmarTest/combinedAuto. You want to use this as opposed to the speedtests at speakeasy.net or speedtest.net because it uses HTML5, not Flash. It’s more accurate.
Are you getting the speeds you’re paying for from the modem? If you’re paying for 200Mb/s and when connecting directly to the modem you’re only getting 30Mb/s you probably need a new modem. I’d recommend the Arris SB6183. It will bond up to 16 Channels and is rated for 600+ Mb/s.
To test your router, do the same thing as 1. above. Plug directly into the router, use the same link in 1. to test your speed. Again, if you’re not getting the higher speeds, you probably need to replace the router. A good recommendation for that would be something like the Zyxel Zywall 110. You might be able to get by with the Zyxel Zywall 50, that’s what I’m using but it may top out lower than the speeds you have.
For WiFi, you’ll need something capable of using the 5Ghz spectrum; the 2.4Ghz spectrum won’t handle the faster speeds. Again, use the link above for testmy.net to check what speed you’re getting out of your WiFi. Unless you’re using the newest iPhone 6S or one of the iPads released around that time, an iOS device is not going to give you a reasonable result. Even if you are using one of the newer iOS devices, you should still use your computer for the WiFi test.
Personally, I like to keep the WiFi separate from the router, so I use WiFi access points. A good recommendation here are the UAP Pro or the UAP AC, both from Ubiquity. The AC is a better choice if you have a new computer capable of using the AC standard; it’s currently the fastest WiFi available.
If you want just one unit with both the routing and the WiFi in the same unit, take a look at the ASUS RT-68U. It’s very highly rated by friends and compatriots in the consulting business.
The age of your patch cables and switch also can be factors with these new higher speeds. In days of old, CAT 5 cables were fine. In this new era of faster speeds, your cables really should be CAT 6. Look at the cable itself. There’s text all over it and somewhere on it you’ll see the designation for the cable.
Likewise, if the switches on your network are not Gigabit switches, you’ll want to replace them. Get the steel switches, not the plastic ones; overall they are better made and will perform better. A good start is either the 5-Port or 8-Port Netgear. If you really need a lot of ports, the 24-Port might be what you want; for most home users, you shouldn’t need something that big.
Hopefully, this will give you some good information about how to get the better speeds from your internet provider. Party on Garth!
This may be the best tip since using iCloud on Snow Leopard.
There are hundreds, maybe thousands of apps in the iTunes app store, those apps specifically for iOS devices – iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch – that are great, but… they have ads all over the place. Very annoying and distracting. Many of those apps allow one to turn the ads off by paying a fee – typically somewhere from 99₵ to $2.99. Some apps, I’m thinking TVGuide in particular, have ads and don’t allow one to turn those off at all. So what I think may be the best TV listings app for iOS is either deal with the ads or find another app. For me, for years, it was the latter. No more.
For 99₵ one can purchase AdBlock for iOS. This turn the ads off for nearly every app having them. With tax, I can say, so far this has been the best $1.07 I’ve spent. Now, TV Guide – NO MORE ADS! Songza, same. Friendly, a nice replacement for Facebook, same. In fact, it was Friendly giving me the idea to search for such an app. It’s called Friendly with AdBlock and the author wants $2.99 to turn off the ads. Enter AdBlock for iOS, a third the price with the same results.
The way the app works is to setup a fake VPN. Then, when the ads go to connect they can’t, so no more ads. Other internet options work just fine. I think, depending on how the app is written determines whether you’ll see a blank bar where the ad should be or nothing at all. For TV Guide, there’s nothing. For Songza, there’s a bar, which for me is still better than the ads.
Note: ComplyFoam now makes a 600 series which works with the Backbeat Go2
I kind of have a fetish for headphones. Perhaps not as bad as some folks, but I have four or five pairs of earbuds, the kind that go in your ear and a couple of pair of over-the-ear headphones. On the latter, I have to admit, one pair is quite old and started falling apart last summer (and, they’re very cheap; the other are a recent purchase which I’m hoping to use more in the winter when it’s cold outside, sort of a combo good sound and ear muffs.) During the warm months, and at the gym, I use the earbuds.
Recently, I thought I’d give some wireless bluetooth ones a try. At an Apple Store, another admitted headphone addict recommended the Plantronics Backbeat Go2.These run anywhere from about $53 on Amazon to $99 at the Apple Store. I gave them a try. Sound was good, but I’ve never been a fan of the silicon tips more earbuds come with. And, my favorite third party vendor for foam earbud replacements, ComplyFoam doesn’t make any specifically for the Backbeat Go2. So, after a week or so, I gave up on them and returned them.
Then, an online company had a sale on the Backbeat Go 1s for $19.95. Couldn’t resist. And, ComplyFoam 200 series fits them. I liked them. Trouble is they were only staying charged for a couple of hours and they were supposed to last four or so. Called Plantronics, one of my new fav companies for standing behind their products. They agreed even though these were refurbs and I had bought them from a third party the Backbeat 1s should stay charged for at least four hours. There aren’t a lot of companies that stand behind their products. Plantronics joins my list of Osprey Packs and Camelbak as consumer oriented vendors. They said they would send me a set of their Backbeat Go2s to replace the faulty Backbeat Go1s!
After I received the BB Go2s, and using them for a few days, I was back where I started. The silicon tips didn’t stay in my ears, even the large, and I was getting disappointed all over again. I wrote to ComplyFoam to ask WHEN they would come out with some foams specifically for the BB Go2s. They said they didn’t have any plans to but they “have seen on some online forums that some customers have been able to use our 500 line of tips for this earphones. It just really needs to be stretched in order to fit around the nozzle.” And that’s where this post fits in.
I searched and searched, and yes, there were online forums where users said they had used the ComplyFoam 500s with the BB Go2s. Problem: Nobody was explaining HOW they stretched the ComplyFoams to fit. I tried several different ways before finding the “correct” way, at least for me. Here’s what finally worked: I used the chuck-end of a 1/4″ drill bit to stretch the ComplyFoam TSX-500. Here’s what it looks like:
You only need to leave it on for a minute or so; just long enough to stretch the inner core so it will slip onto the BBGo2. If you don’t happen to have drill bits, you can also try the backend of a Papermate BIC-type pen; the throw away kind
After you get the ComplyFoams on your Backbeat Go2, you can enjoy your music and the comfort of the foam tips versus the silicon ones. Of course, some may prefer the silicon, but for me, the foams are better.
For a couple of weeks or maybe more, new email messages coming in from my gmail accounts were automatically being marked read before I ever opened them. It was maddening.
I’ve spent a couple of days looking into this and there seem to be several things which might contribute to this happening: (the suggestions all are under the Settings, upper right of the Inbox which looks like this
Check your filters. This will be in Settings –> Filters. If any of them are purposely setting a ‘Mark as Read’ this might be the problem.
For me, this was under Settings –> Accounts and Imports –> Other Google Account settings. On the next page, click Security at the top of the page. Then, on the lower right, in the Account permissions section, next to Apps and websites, click View all. On the next page, look at the Apps and websites which have access to your account. I’ve been looking for the ‘ideal’ gmail client for my iOS devices so there were were quite a few Apps which were no longer on my devices. I clicked each one, then over on the right side, clicked Revoke access. In all honesty, I don’t think it was the now gone Apps. There was also an item for Amazon, and I have no idea why I would have granted Amazon access to any email other than the one I use to order stuff. After revoking the Amazon privileges, the problem seems to have disappeared.
Why this suddenly began, I don’t know. But it appears to be gone now. If this helps you, consider the hours it took me to solve this; consider making a contribution via PayPal.
Ever had the fan on your MacBook Pro just run continuously while Chrome was open? Me, too! I knew it was Chrome because I opened Activity Monitor and sorted the CPU column. When I did this so the highest CPU usage (which is what causes the fan to kick in) was at the top, it indicated Google Chrome Renderer was the culprit.
So, how can one tell what page is causing the high CPU usage? It’s actually pretty simple.
Switch over so Chrome is front running application. Once you’re there, click on the three horizontal lines in the upper right hand corner. Like so:
When you click that a menu will open. Select Tools, then Task Manager, like so:
Now, you can see the pages you have open. You can sort this by CPU by clicking on that column head. When you do, you should see the page that’s rocketing your CPU and thus your fan. For me, it was a page on box.com
Close that page and the fan should crank down. That’s it!
Simple and easy.
Now, get back to work 🙂
If this was helpful and you’d like to make a contribution, click the PayPal link, below.
Recently, I’d been having a problem where my main computer’s Home Shared music wasn’t showing all the music in my iTunes Library when I opened it on one of my iOS (iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch) devices. After some research, this is the solution to fixing that misbehavior.
On you iOS device open the Music app and make sure you aren’t connected to sharing. If you are, disconnect from sharing and return to the Home screen. Make sure the Music App isn’t running (bring up the multi-tasking bar at the bottom, tap and hold on the Music app and then click on the red X.) You may have to reboot your device
Open the Settings app (grey, looks like a gear). Scroll down to the Music selection. Sign out of Home Sharing and exit the Settings app.
Open the Music app again. Make sure sharing isn’t available.
Back to Home screen and re-open Settings, Music. Re-enable Home Sharing (you’ll probably need to put in your Apple ID and password.)
Finally, re-open the Music app. Go to More, then Shared. Select your Shared Library and if everything is right with the world, all your Music should be there now.
With Google Calendars, you can have others in your business act as delegates, or a trusted representative, for your calendar.
Here’s the instructions, directly from Google:
To delegate your calendar:
Sign in to your calendar at http://calendar.google.com/a/your_domain.com.
Click Calendar settings at the top.
In the Sharing column for your calendar, click Share this calendar or Shared: Edit settings(whichever appears).
In the Share with specific people box, type the email address of the person to whom you want to delegate your calendar.
Click Add person.
In the drop-down box under Permission Settings, select Make changes AND manage sharing.
After you’ve delegated your calendar, your delegate can sign in to their calendar and manage your calendar. For example, your delegate can follow these steps to create a new event on your calendar:
Sign in to Calendar (the delegate’s calendar).
Verify that the delegated calendar shows up in the My Calendars list.
In the drop-down list by the delegated calendar, select Create a new event on this calendar.
You can have your Google calendars sync with your iOS devices (iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch) and your Mac. Depending on which version of Mac OS you’re running, it can be easy or mor difficult. But typically it just involves setting it up. A couple of alternatives would be to use BusySync, BusyCal or Soho Organizer.
I’ve been really happy with Google calendars for a few years. Until recently.
Within the last year, either Google or Apple or both did something that was causing me more work (and aggravation) than I will allow. Either something works or it doesn’t and when it doesn’t, I get rid of it. I’m speaking of technology, of course. 🙂
I had been using BusySync for a number of years with my 11 Google calendars (brought over from my Palm days) up until recently. They were working just perfectly until some time this year (2012). Then, I would change an event in my iCal on my Mac, and a new calendar would appear, “BusySync Conflicts”. OK, I found out if I made the change on my Mac, in iCal as opposed to doing it with the Google Calendar interface through a web browser, I would have this problem. It got to the point where I really couldn’t use iCal because I’d forget and the stupid ‘BusySync Conflicts’ would show up.
I resigned I would have to stop using iCal, except for reference, and start doing everything through the browser interface. Then, a new glitch. I would log in to my Google Calendars and a number of them would be turned off indiscriminately. By the time iCloud was released full blown, around late July, I had had it. I queried business associates who likely were using iCloud, members of the ACN, and felt comfortable I could leave my frustrations behind by switching to iCloud.
Here’s how I did it, make sure your Google calendars are the most up-to-date as these are the files we’ll be working with. This is very important! Do not proceed if this is not the case. Shortly, you’ll be deleting most of your iCal calendars. By the way, this tutorial assumes you are only using Google and the iCal/Calendar app for calendars. If you are also using any other calendars, including iCloud,STOP! This tutorial is not for you and I won’t be dealing with how to deal with that situation.
First, I logged into my Google Calendars. Once there, on the right side I clicked on the gear and selected Settings. Then clicked on Calendars on the upper left under the ‘Calendar Settings’ header. Once there, I scrolled about 2/3 down to find the Export Calendars link. Click that, and all your calendars will download as ‘your google account name’.ical.zip. If you’re using Safari, as I was, it will unzip the folder in your user account Downloads folder and trash the zip file. OK. That’s the beginning.
This is the part you might get nervous about. Open iCal on your Mac. First, just in case, select the File menu then choose Export and finally iCal archive. (If you’re using Lion or Mountain Lion, substitute Calendar for iCal as this is the new calendar in Mac OS X.) Now that you’ve got a backup of all your calendars, it’s time to delete them. You can delete all but one. You might possibly want to create a new Calendar called Calendar and delete all the calendars but that one. We’ll delete that calendar later. Your iCal or Calendar should now be clean of all calendar info.
From the iCal/Calendar menu on that app on your Mac, choose Preferences, then Accounts. Now you’ll create your iCloud account. If using Lion or Mountain Lion, you’ll click the + sign below the sidebar. The Add an Account window will open. From the Account type window, select iCloud and fill out the appropriate information for your iCloud account. You should now have an iCloud calendar on your Mac. (If you’re still using Snow Leopard, See the post, How to get Calendar & Address Book with iCloud on Snow Leopard to create your iCloud account on your Mac.) Once you have your iCloud calendars setup in iCal/Calendar, you can delete any other calendar (such as the one called Calendar, suggested earlier) which you don’t want to keep.
Now, you’ll go into the folder which you downloaded from your Google calendars and under the iCloud calendars which appear in your iCal/Calendar you’ll create calendars with names to match the names of the calendars you had on Google. (You don’t have to name the calendars the same, it’s just a suggestion.)
After you’ve created the additional calendars, you can use the Import function from the File menu in iCal/Calendar to bring your data from the Google calendars in.
With the calendars now in iCal/Calendar and linked to iCloud, you will now have calendars which can sync with your iPhone/iPad/Mac by using iCloud.
Back in the days of Entourage, one could open separate windows for Mail, Calendar & Contacts. With Outlook 2011, Microsoft has forced the use of one window with clicking on the options at the bottom left to change from Mail to Calendar to Contacts. Different even from the way Outlook for Windows allows inline folders. So what to do?
It turns out, you can open separate windows for Outlook 2011. Here’s how: While viewing Mail, instead of on Calendar, which changes the screen from Mail to Calendar, do this instead. Right-click on any other mail folder (it doesn’t matter which one). Outlook will open a contextual menu, with the top choice being ‘Open In New Window.’ With this new window open, click on Calendar (or Contacts) at the bottom. Now, you have two windows: One with Mail and the other with Calendar.
If you are on any OS since Lion (10.7), you can use Mission Control to put one or the other in another window. And, if you have a Magic Mouse, Magic Track Pad or any portable Mac, you can swipe from window to window. On Snow Leopard, you can put each Window in it’s own Spaces.